Nantes

So this is late but more for myself, a sort of list of what we did in Nantes with Melanie.

House of Jules-Verne, I elieve he wrote 1000 Leagues under the sea
1966 Titan Crane, yellow
Tour Bretagne
Les Machines de L'ile and the 36 foot tall elephant
Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Port, aka L'eglise Saint-Louis, the first one we saw, beautiful!
Quai de la Fosse
Ile Feydeau, used to be an island b/c rivers used to stream through Nantes but have since been covered and made into roads. This 'island' had very sketchy foundation and you could tell just by looking at the houses whose floors no longer lined up straight.
Passage Pommeraye
Place Royale, fountain, Amorino ice cream, Melanie is stubborn and made it her treat.
l'elglise Saint Nicolas
Old Feltre Market, beautiful indoor shopping area where we did some window browsing
Theatre Graslin, evidently a good hangout spot
Cours Cambronne, the fancy neighborhood that's public although they will occasionally hush you, tsk on them.
New Palais de Justice
Rue de Carmes Apothecaries House, old style 15th century timber frame, also crooked foundation
Cours de 50- Otages, alle de tannerus- blue tree people display!
Cathedrall Saint Pierre Saint Paul, beautiful, where Melanie's parents got married
Entree du chateau des ducs the Bretagne, Palace of the dukes of Brittany, castle!
LU tower, famous Nantes cookie manufacturer
Cours Saint Pierre Stairs, monument to the soldiers (Nantes has some strong WWII history)
Watching the TV show Pascal, saving France one family at a time
The online trivia game her family played, hilariously fun to watch the tensions rise as they tried to beat the clock. Her brother Ben and sister Mathilde got especially into it!
Drinking Kerisac, a cidre of Bretagne. I bought a bolee, a small cup used for drinking said cider but now no longer have the Kerisac.
The delicious meals and awesome conversation and aperitif, especially when taken outdoors in their beautiful garden.

Melanie and her father took me on an out of Nantes excursion
We went to Guerande and explored the walled in older city. Had delicious galletes and crepes for lunch.
We checked out the Marais Salante, or salt fields/marshes; Guerande is famous for harvesting salt. It was kind of freaking awesome.
We then drove to Le Croisic with it's beautiful harbor and sail boats
Le Pouliguen where we walked around the beach and boardwalk, ate niniche (a candy)
La Baule, drove along the boardwalk, I love the sea!
Pornichet


I know I'm not doing it justice but I don't want to forget what we did and I just found the paper that had it all written down.
I had a BLAST with Melanie and her family!

Day four: a tour through the mountains

We slept in that day and didn't hit the road until about 11:30. We just drove all over the three valleys : Valle del Roncal, Valle Salazar and Acuzkua. We made it all the way to Orbaizeta, into the Spanish province of Aragon, where we got out to walk about what remained of an old arms factory. Curious location for an arms factory, all isolated in the mountains. Favorite part was this itty bitty puppy standing in a huge doorway, almost like a small guard to a huge room! We tried to continue on up the mountainside but a very thick fog and narrow streets sent us back down. We made our way back to Urzainki for another patio lunch.

Urzainki is where I felt as though summer has now arrived, and that only peace could acompany it. It made me feel so alive and full of desire to be outdoors and active, no wonder everyone there seems to be!

Wrapping up, we checked out the town bellow as Eneko said hi to more friends, then we hit the road again, driving by Izaba again to Cueva del Ibon, a cave alongside the road, that we just got out of the car and barely checked out, no deep cave explorations, thank you. Then on to Zuriza, a place where he tends to camp a lot, in an open valley with a river, wide grass expanse, wooded mountains and snow topped peaks in the distance. So beautiful I felt immediately like calling up Dad and having him plan a camping/canoing trip.

Then another long and beautiful drive in which I stared out the window, entranced by the intense beauty outside. We stopped at Foz de Arbayun, a canyon valley with a river flowing through. It was breathtaking and a reminder that I must visit the Grand Canyon soon. then back to Beasain we went, driving through the valleys, desert, and valleys again.

Back in Beasain, I saw the city all a flutter. Beasain's holiday of its Saint was to be next week but the fair was already set up. The best part was that all the people were just out and about. I LOVE HOW YOU JUST ALWAYS FIND PEOPLE WALKING OUTSIDE. I feel like here, back at home, people only go outdoors for exercise or because they're shopping. Not so much strolling in KC-understandable I guess b/c of how spread out the city is.

Eneko's parents greeted us and we had a delicious meal and great conversation. I love his family! I'd forgotten how nice a family dinner could be.

I just had the best time with Eneko, his family and the country side! It was terribly sad to leave, but Eneko said he'll join me for when I return to Spain to do the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, whenver that may be (I'm thinking within the next five years). So I'll have to come back to retrieve him for that! The fact that Melanie's visit was immediately after my departure from Eneko also made leaving him a little less sad.

(And the visit to Melanie to be added soon!)

Day 3 continued

From Pamplona we drove to Olite, changing scenery all together as we went from lush open green fields to the desert. I think, though, that I was more fascinated by the wind mills(go clean energy!) that filled the horizon. 19 on one hilltop with 30 on a hill just after that one! Tree hugger Jillian was quite pleased.

In Olite we toured the caslte. This town was completely different. A warmer colored stone to match the heat. In addition to heat my allergies suffered as huge chunks of pollen floated everywhere. Nonetheless, the tour of the castle was great. The Royal Palace of Olite was built in 1402-24, Commissioned by Carlos III King of Navarre in 15th Century, restored in 1937-67. It was neat that they kept on a bit not restored so that you could see the original structure. From the many towers you get a great view of the town, all tightly built together with narrow streets, red tiled roofs, flat dry lands all around and mountains with windmills off in the distance.

Leaving Olite, we went to Ujue, a small town atop a mountainside, recommended to visit by Eneko's dad so that I could see a typical build of a village: tightly condensed towns plopped on the top of the hill. Very neat, especially looking at it from afar and looking from it out at the terrain, so different from the mountains where we began our day's journey.

From Ujue to Javier, a town made up of a a few hotels, a church/castle to San Javier and the monk's residence. Definitely a quiet place where one could find peaceful meditation. We walked around a bit, enjoying a bar of ice cream to fight off the heat before we left for Leyre to just take a peek around: I didn't feel like stopping for an hour to take the guided tour. Stepping in to inquire about the tour I got a good peek inside and got to hear monks chanting, that was good enough for me ;)

Then we left for our final destination of the day, Urzainki, Eneko's paradise. In Valle del Roncal lie 7 villages, one of which is Urzainki where Eneko's family has a home, a beautiful home in the most gorgeous spot! We left the desert and were swept into the curvy roads of the mountain valley. Always following the river, we drove first into a small town to pick up food. Upon arriving in urzainki, eneko was greeted by people who hadn't seen him in nine months. Happy reunions! I swear, EVERY friend he ran into asked where the hamburgers went and why he wasn't fat. Finally someone who could attest to the truth that not all Americans are fat! (Ironic though considering here I was an American abroad who totally gained weight while out of my 'fat' country).

After dropping our things off, Eneko took me for a drive past Izaba, another small town, up through a valley opening where the goats who make the famous Queso Roncal graze towards the mountains he so very much loves. We basically drove to the top, again, into France, where Eneko shouted 'baclava" to Melanie who arrived in Nantes, France that day! With snow still on the top of the mountains we had a lovely white above-green below view. I hope my photos came out well because the sight was just in credible. And to think he's hiked/skied/biked all over that area! I absolutely love how active everyone there is. Makes me oh so eager to return home and get in shape ;)

Returning, we made dinner and dined out on his patio, watching the sun fade away and basking int he beauty of the mountains. We met up with his friends at a bar they frequent regularly. Now, my Spanish is good, but when the four guy friends started getting excited and speed talking, throwing in Basque names and places I got a bit lost. Luckily the girl friends kept me engaged in convo and all was fun.

Definitely my favorite place visited while there! I can see why it is his paradise

Day 3: From mountain to desert to mountain

Sorry I'm so late!

So, on May 16th, we left Beasain for Pamplona. Instead of taking the highway, Eneko took us along a curvy path throug the mountains near Beasain. I got to see beautiful green valleys full of tall and thick trees with the occasional grass opening that flowed beautifully down the mountainside. We drove past Eneko's father's home town, Ataun. The road was splendid. I'd forgotten how much I missed trees. It felt like summer driving along a tree covered road with the sun peeking down and shinning the way.

Pamplona was the first stop, it's Eneko's likely city of choice to live in, and I can see why, it is lovely. We walked along the ancient walls that once guarded the city against attack. We walked along a huge open part towards the citadel. We made our way to the old part of the city, best known for the running of the bulls. Here Eneko explained to me the tradition of the festival of San Fermin, taking me along the Encierro del recorrido de los torros, telling me what it's like to see millions cramming in to catch seconds worth of a glimpse at the runners and bulls as they fly by. Found out the festivities begin on my birthday with a rocket launch at noon in the central plaza, actual running not til July 7th. We toured even more of the walls and old city before stopping in a bar for pintxos. The US really needs pintxos.

(crap, I've got to go, Rachel's leaving for Nicaragua and I need to say adios... lol I'll finish my recap soon, I promise!)

Day 2: journeying along the coast

Eneko and I pretty much had a full day, we left Beasain around 9 and didn't get back until 8:30 pm! We took the high way all the way to St. Jean de luz (or San Juan de la luz in Spanish) in the French Basque Country; yes, I started off in France! It is a beautiful port city, so amazingly picturesue. White buildings around 3 or four stories, red trim, lovely! We walked through the center before getting caught in the rain and finding shelter in a cafe. Seeing signs in French took me back to Paris but it was even cooler because there was the mix of Euskera as well. We took a walk along the boardwalk along the Cantabric sea, oh goodness that is beautiful town! Then off in the car just a ways up to get out to walk along the docks towards a castle like sttructure before realizing our path didn't connect to it. We were also greeted by a bit more rain, but that was the last time for the day. We managed to scare away the rain the rest of the day by always keeping an umbrella on us.

Then we went to Hendaye, another coastal town on the French side. Beautiful again, I absolutely love the house styles. Such a warm and happy feeling to the place!

Hondarribia was our first stop in Spain. From here on it was all sun. Were we parked the car and went for a good walk all over. We passed a school where tons of people were gathered around a reccess style soccer match that had all animated. We took a walk along the boardwalk again to the city center... I've seen more of the sea these five months than any other point in my life I think! We even passed by a nursery school playing music in Euskera, oh the linguist in me was on such a language high! We toured the center a bit, lovely atmosphere, Euskera signs everywhere. I think here the houses were even prettier, four to five stories with white walls and red, blue or green trim. Evne better was when they had flowers on their balconies or Ikurrinas (the flag of Euskal Herria). The old part of the city was of course stone streets and houses, remains of outer walls even! The center square offered a breathtaking view out over the city on towards the sea.

What I love about the old parts of the cities is the feel. You have this old environment with newer shops and bars but these new businesses within the older structure don't take away from the ambiance. And then above it all are residences, I couldn't even imagine living in such a place! It'd be like a dream at first!

From there we went to San Sebastian where we walked a ton! We started off near the old part of the city but did a beach tour first, walking along two of the three beaches, each offering a completely different sight. Walking along the path was awesome: there were people jogging, walking, huge waves crashing upon the walls, the taste of salt in the air, the infinite sea before you and the beautiful city behind. We turned the mountain bend to reach Playa de la Concha which gave view to eight story apartments, some of the most expensive in all of the Basque Country, maybe even Spain (?).

I don't think a single child was in school that day because I think we passed by every single elementary classroom out on a fieldtrip that day! I don't blame them, it was a beautiful day. We then proceeded to explore the old part of the city. There we had pintxos. This is the best place for pintxos, Eneko was so excited to bring me to this part! The bars were lined with sooo many options, poor indecisive me didn't know what to do! I somehow managed to choose two and they were delicious and so was the one I had at the second bar. American bars need pintxos for sure!

We then went back to the beach to walk along toward s the Peines del Viento, the combs of the wind, three sculptures that look like combs sticking out of te rocks. The ocean waves were intnese near it and it was actually a piece of art I could understand. Then we went on the funicular, a sort of lift that took us to the tallest hill from which we saw the most spectacular view of the city! It was worth it for sure!

Back in the car we drove to several more fishing beach happily beautiful towns like Orio and Zarautz. Then on to Getaria, a smaller fishing town, where we parked by the docks and wandered all around. My favorite part was the plaza. Here there were people of all ages gathered together, talking, playing and having a blast. There I saw my first fronton, a sort of wall set up for playing this game where you throw a ball at the wall and hit it back as it bounces back to you. Usually done with a bat of some sort, these guys were playing bare handed! From here we went to Zumaia and ended up with a trip from the coast to Azpeitia and the Santuario de Loyola; huge, grey stone, old and impressive.

by this point the two of us were spent! No wonder, it had been 12 hours of driving, walking, exploring and excitement! We came back to a delicious dinner by Eneko's mom, Asun, complete with great conversation again... pretty sure I crashed as soon as I hit the bed!

Lots of catching up to do: Basque Country Day 1

Ok so while I was there I actually journaled each night b/c there was just so much that we did. You can just enjoy the photos (all are on facebook) but the entries are pretty much going to be novels b/c I wanted to remember ALL of it:

I had a night layover at London Stansted where I slept maybe 30 minutes but met a couple ready to do the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, a five week trek that I WILL do in the future. Eneko even said he'll join me for it!

I was greeted at the airport by Eneko and a big hug and all was just great! Immediately we set off in his car and drove through beautiful, windy mountains to Bermeo, a typical Basque port town. Towns of boats were at the docks, salt in the air, Euskera (obviously) written everywhere, it was awesome! There I had my first pintxos (pronounced pinchos), similar to tapas. I enjoyed tortilla española, Eneko´s kind treat, pretty much like everything while I was there! We were going to take a coastal route to Guernika but the road was out. No matter, the road we took was still beautiful!

In Guernika we saw the árbol, famous tree that represents freedom and rights of the Basques and we explored a nearby park. Then we went back to Bilbao where we parked and walked ALL over the city! Oh I love walking, especially when exploring a new city! We had beautiful weather and enjoyed walking along the river, the Gran Vía, checking out the Guggenheim Museum from outside; I loved the two story floral dog. We walked to the old part of the city; those tended to be my favorite parts of cities.

We stopped at Oñati, where Eneko studied for a year and then we went into the mountains to check out the Santuario de Arantzazu, a beautiful church and monastery built into the side of the mountain in 1702. NO idea how they did it but it is beautiful, definitely a place where you can reflect and have spiritual experiences for sure!

Then we drove to Eneko´s city of Beasain, passing by his father on his bike along the way. They have a lovely home with the most perfect view of the city and the mountain that overlooks the city! I actually wound up with my own flat above theirs. His family is so nice and were so welcoming!!! We had a delicious dinner of chorrizo, bread, salad, fuit and to tell the truth, fruit addict that I am, I think I enjoyed the salad the most... I desperately need to detox from this experience abroad and can´t wait to eat salad every day!!! I love produce and should´ve just spent the money and bought salad ingredients this semester, would´ve saved me some trouble int he long run. We sat around the table for a long while, just talking, mostly about places to go and so forth.

Eneko and I had the fortune of catching Mélanie and Kevin on skype: one european and one american on each end! It was so fun... I learned about Eneko and Mélanie´s ¨baklava¨joke. I had a freaking awesome first day!

Way behind!

I journaled while away in Euskal Herria and in Nantes, France so I'll update later

Fast summary:

I HAD A FREAKING BLAST VISITING ENEKO AND MÉLANIE AND THEIR FAMILIES AND THEIR CITIES AND REGIONS!

Tomorrow I'm headed for Belfast, Northern Ireland with my roommate and we'll explore it and then the Giants Causeway, my main reason for going north. Then it's back here to Galway on Weds. I'll update then.

Extra benefit of this last visit is that it'll keep me occupied during this last week in which all of my friends made here have already returned to the States, sans Irene. I'm ready to come home but at least I've got something to keep me from going crazy! I'm excited for the causeway, wish us good weather!