Thursday, June 11, 2009

Day four: a tour through the mountains





We slept in that day and didn't hit the road until about 11:30. We just drove all over the three valleys : Valle del Roncal, Valle Salazar and Acuzkua. We made it all the way to Orbaizeta, into the Spanish province of Aragon, where we got out to walk about what remained of an old arms factory. Curious location for an arms factory, all isolated in the mountains. Favorite part was this itty bitty puppy standing in a huge doorway, almost like a small guard to a huge room! We tried to continue on up the mountainside but a very thick fog and narrow streets sent us back down. We made our way back to Urzainki for another patio lunch.

Urzainki is where I felt as though summer has now arrived, and that only peace could acompany it. It made me feel so alive and full of desire to be outdoors and active, no wonder everyone there seems to be!

Wrapping up, we checked out the town bellow as Eneko said hi to more friends, then we hit the road again, driving by Izaba again to Cueva del Ibon, a cave alongside the road, that we just got out of the car and barely checked out, no deep cave explorations, thank you. Then on to Zuriza, a place where he tends to camp a lot, in an open valley with a river, wide grass expanse, wooded mountains and snow topped peaks in the distance. So beautiful I felt immediately like calling up Dad and having him plan a camping/canoing trip.

Then another long and beautiful drive in which I stared out the window, entranced by the intense beauty outside. We stopped at Foz de Arbayun, a canyon valley with a river flowing through. It was breathtaking and a reminder that I must visit the Grand Canyon soon. then back to Beasain we went, driving through the valleys, desert, and valleys again.

Back in Beasain, I saw the city all a flutter. Beasain's holiday of its Saint was to be next week but the fair was already set up. The best part was that all the people were just out and about. I LOVE HOW YOU JUST ALWAYS FIND PEOPLE WALKING OUTSIDE. I feel like here, back at home, people only go outdoors for exercise or because they're shopping. Not so much strolling in KC-understandable I guess b/c of how spread out the city is.

Eneko's parents greeted us and we had a delicious meal and great conversation. I love his family! I'd forgotten how nice a family dinner could be.

I just had the best time with Eneko, his family and the country side! It was terribly sad to leave, but Eneko said he'll join me for when I return to Spain to do the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, whenver that may be (I'm thinking within the next five years). So I'll have to come back to retrieve him for that! The fact that Melanie's visit was immediately after my departure from Eneko also made leaving him a little less sad.

(And the visit to Melanie to be added soon!)

Day 3 continued






From Pamplona we drove to Olite, changing scenery all together as we went from lush open green fields to the desert. I think, though, that I was more fascinated by the wind mills(go clean energy!) that filled the horizon. 19 on one hilltop with 30 on a hill just after that one! Tree hugger Jillian was quite pleased.

In Olite we toured the caslte. This town was completely different. A warmer colored stone to match the heat. In addition to heat my allergies suffered as huge chunks of pollen floated everywhere. Nonetheless, the tour of the castle was great. The Royal Palace of Olite was built in 1402-24, Commissioned by Carlos III King of Navarre in 15th Century, restored in 1937-67. It was neat that they kept on a bit not restored so that you could see the original structure. From the many towers you get a great view of the town, all tightly built together with narrow streets, red tiled roofs, flat dry lands all around and mountains with windmills off in the distance.

Leaving Olite, we went to Ujue, a small town atop a mountainside, recommended to visit by Eneko's dad so that I could see a typical build of a village: tightly condensed towns plopped on the top of the hill. Very neat, especially looking at it from afar and looking from it out at the terrain, so different from the mountains where we began our day's journey.

From Ujue to Javier, a town made up of a a few hotels, a church/castle to San Javier and the monk's residence. Definitely a quiet place where one could find peaceful meditation. We walked around a bit, enjoying a bar of ice cream to fight off the heat before we left for Leyre to just take a peek around: I didn't feel like stopping for an hour to take the guided tour. Stepping in to inquire about the tour I got a good peek inside and got to hear monks chanting, that was good enough for me ;)

Then we left for our final destination of the day, Urzainki, Eneko's paradise. In Valle del Roncal lie 7 villages, one of which is Urzainki where Eneko's family has a home, a beautiful home in the most gorgeous spot! We left the desert and were swept into the curvy roads of the mountain valley. Always following the river, we drove first into a small town to pick up food. Upon arriving in urzainki, eneko was greeted by people who hadn't seen him in nine months. Happy reunions! I swear, EVERY friend he ran into asked where the hamburgers went and why he wasn't fat. Finally someone who could attest to the truth that not all Americans are fat! (Ironic though considering here I was an American abroad who totally gained weight while out of my 'fat' country).

After dropping our things off, Eneko took me for a drive past Izaba, another small town, up through a valley opening where the goats who make the famous Queso Roncal graze towards the mountains he so very much loves. We basically drove to the top, again, into France, where Eneko shouted 'baclava" to Melanie who arrived in Nantes, France that day! With snow still on the top of the mountains we had a lovely white above-green below view. I hope my photos came out well because the sight was just in credible. And to think he's hiked/skied/biked all over that area! I absolutely love how active everyone there is. Makes me oh so eager to return home and get in shape ;)

Returning, we made dinner and dined out on his patio, watching the sun fade away and basking int he beauty of the mountains. We met up with his friends at a bar they frequent regularly. Now, my Spanish is good, but when the four guy friends started getting excited and speed talking, throwing in Basque names and places I got a bit lost. Luckily the girl friends kept me engaged in convo and all was fun.

Definitely my favorite place visited while there! I can see why it is his paradise

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Day 3: From mountain to desert to mountain

Sorry I'm so late!

So, on May 16th, we left Beasain for Pamplona. Instead of taking the highway, Eneko took us along a curvy path throug the mountains near Beasain. I got to see beautiful green valleys full of tall and thick trees with the occasional grass opening that flowed beautifully down the mountainside. We drove past Eneko's father's home town, Ataun. The road was splendid. I'd forgotten how much I missed trees. It felt like summer driving along a tree covered road with the sun peeking down and shinning the way.

Pamplona was the first stop, it's Eneko's likely city of choice to live in, and I can see why, it is lovely. We walked along the ancient walls that once guarded the city against attack. We walked along a huge open part towards the citadel. We made our way to the old part of the city, best known for the running of the bulls. Here Eneko explained to me the tradition of the festival of San Fermin, taking me along the Encierro del recorrido de los torros, telling me what it's like to see millions cramming in to catch seconds worth of a glimpse at the runners and bulls as they fly by. Found out the festivities begin on my birthday with a rocket launch at noon in the central plaza, actual running not til July 7th. We toured even more of the walls and old city before stopping in a bar for pintxos. The US really needs pintxos.

(crap, I've got to go, Rachel's leaving for Nicaragua and I need to say adios... lol I'll finish my recap soon, I promise!)